For the second leg of my French adventure, I chose a location not too far from Bordeaux. In fact, my second destination, Toulouse, the 4th largest city in France, is only 3 hours by bus from Bordeaux. Also, and most importantly, Toulouse is located along the Occitanie portion of the Garonne River. But, this is where the similarities end. Toulouse had its own flavor and feel. It was not at all like the stone façades of Bordeaux. Toulouse was more sunny, more open. Toulouse tantalized me into enjoying myself much more than I thought I could after my experiences in Bordeaux.
A River and its Surroundings
Just as in Bordeaux, the main attraction of Toulouse for me was the river. The Garonne felt much more accessible in Toulouse, with 4 major bridges spanning the river, connecting the industrious west side to the more historic and touristic east side. The prettiest bridge is Le Pont Neuf. It’s arches can be seen in the cover photo of this post, and with the December sun overhead, a perfect reflection of the bridge creates circles that can be seen from afar. There are many beautiful parks and gardens surrounding the river to be enjoyed. The Jardin Royal is connected to the Grand Rond by a bridge over a busy road, both green areas bringing peace and quiet. Toulouse in general felt quiet. With almost no exception, I rarely ran into large groups of people. I felt as though I had the city to myself to explore. I think the Garonne has a calming influence on the city.
Once I left the gardens, I was drawn to the riverfront at Place de la Daurade, a park where one can dip their feet in the slow-moving river and watch the pigeons fly by. Most of the east bank of the river is like this. I hadn’t so much peace and quiet since I was in the paradise that is the Azores. That’s a high compliment in my book. Walking further along the river leads to a peaceful walk through a tree-lined canal. Following the beckoning branches of the trees leads to a beautiful Japanese garden with a red oriental-style bridge over a pond full of koi. Many park benches in the shade of huge plane trees are filled with lovers and acquaintances, enjoying each other’s company and the company of the nature around them. Toulouse has an overabundance of such spots. It helped me avoid and forget about the problems that had plagued me in Bordeaux.
A Christmas Market and its Surroundings
I did divert myself from the Garonne at some points. Although Toulouse is known for its universities (housing 130,000 French students within their halls), it still has notable attractions that I made due notice to visit. All of these points of interest branched off of Place du Capitole, a large square surrounded by restaurants and government buildings. In the spirit of the holidays, Place du Capitole was filled with a large holiday market, filled with vendors selling an assortment of delectable French food and drinks. Sweets, such as macarons, crêpes, and even Pasteis de Nata (of Portuguese acclaim) were everywhere. I enjoyed a good piece of really good chocolate raspberry pie from a vendor that had been recommended to be by Emilie, a Belgian friend of mine who had studied in Toulouse. I also ended up having a delicious rotisserie sandwich. I had so many delectable options, such as aligot (mashed potatoes with cheese and various other condiments), but this sandwich turned out to be a pretty good choice. It was layered with rotisserie chicken that had just been cooked, onions that were fried on the grill in front of me, French cheese also melted in front of me, and a Dijon mustard sauce that was the cherry on top. There were so many good smells in this market; its a shame I couldn’t find and try everything that enticed my sense of smell.
Outside of the market, one can follow the narrow alleyways to the two main architectural attractions of Toulouse. To the north, and close to the hostel I stayed in, is Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse, a beautiful cathedral walking distance from the main university of Toulouse, and thus buzzing with student activity. Walking inside (whilst dodging the beggars surrounding the building) results in a more serene atmosphere. There is actually not much to see inside; the Basilica is your typical run-of-the-mill religious building from the Middle Ages. What differentiated the Basilica was the nice gated park around the perimeter of the building where one can sit pensively while glimpsing a typical Toulouse day pass by. The more well-known and well-visited attraction in Toulouse is to the southwest of the market, and has a huge history. Couvent des Jacobins is a former convent and hospital for pilgrims. The convent was a common way-point for travelers making the journey to Santiago de Compostela, the supposed final resting place of St. James the greater, one of the 12 apostles. Places such as this convent were a boon for travelers oftentimes afflicted by illness, theft, and fatigue as they made this pilgrimage to the part of Spain north of present-day Portugal. The convent provided free room and board for the pilgrims as a sort of good deed and as encouragement to these pious folk, who often had nothing more than the clothes on their back and a walking stick. The many rooms within are where these pilgrims slept centuries before I made my own pilgrimage to Europe, one that ended in this convent in Toulouse. I don’t know how many intrepid travelers of the past never finished their journey, but I am blessed that my journey ended safely in such a lovely city as Toulouse.
The grand finale of this blog is coming. Well, it might not be so grand. My 30th and final post will be a final reflection about how I feel know that I have returned home. It felt like a switch flipped when I landed at Sea-Tac, and I want to convey those feelings to finish this experience of. Look for that post before the new year. Until next time,
Jeremy Caldeira
How toulouse became so famous? What is the history behind toulouse? portable exhibition stands
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